The spinning wheel is more difficult to master than the drop spindle, because it requires pedals to work the speed of the wheel and has more parts than a drop spindle. However, once you've gotten the hang of spinning on a wheel, you can spin more quickly than with a drop spindle. A spinning wheel works by rotating the bobbin using the drive band. Antique primitive wood spinning wheel flyer bobbin spool Europe Lithuania #4. . All our wheels now have 2 tension springs, 1 attached to the brake band either side of the bobbin whorl. These allow the brake band to work freely when both spinning & plying. If your wheel only has 1 tension spring, add a second on the opposite side. Bobbin Spin the bobbin. It should rotate freely.

On a spinning wheel the flyer adds twist, and the bobbin “takes-up” or “winds-on” the twisted fiber, aka yarn. Both the flyer and bobbin spin, but they have to be able to spin at different speeds. This allows you, the spinner to control how much twist is added before the yarn is wound on to the bobbin. There are three general ways to control how twist is added, and yarn is taken up: Double drive, single drive flyer lead (Scotch tension), and single drive bobbin lead (Irish tension).

Double drive spinning wheels

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Double drive wheels have one drive band wound around twice, or two drive bands: Both the flyer and the bobbin are spun by the band, using whorls (pulleys). The whorl size can be changed to adjust the speed of the flyer and bobbin. Smaller whorls mean faster spinning (see “ratios” section below).

For double drive, the bobbin spins faster (has a smaller whorl) than the flyer to take up yarn. However, the whorl for the bobbin has a “U” shaped groove, which allows the drive band to slip when tension is applied to the fiber being spun. Slipping slows the bobbin, so that extra twist can be added to your yarn before take up. The flyer whorls have a “V” shape, which grips the drive band and does not slip easily. Sometimes two drive bands are used: no-slip elastic on the flyer; cotton or hemp on the bobbin which slip more easily.

Single drive flyer lead spinning wheels: Scotch tension

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Scotch tension is a very common single drive spinning wheel configuration. With Scotch tension the flyer is driven/spun by the drive wheel. The flyer always spins and adds twist when the drive wheel is spinning. The bobbin can either spin with the flyer, which adds twist without taking up yarn, or can spin more slowly than the flyer (or stop) to take up yarn.

An adjustable brake on the bobbin is set so that applying tension to the fiber with your hand will make the bobbin spin, but releasing the tension on the fiber will allow the brake to stop the bobbin, and take up yarn. Since the bobbin tension can be set very light, you can have very light tension while still adding twist: scotch tension is great you want to spin very light yarns.

Single drive bobbin lead spinning wheels: Irish tension

Single drive bobbin lead, aka Irish tension, is similar Scotch tension, just flipped; in this case the drive band goes around a pulley on the bobbin. The flyer has an adjustable brake that allows it to spin faster or slower depending upon the tension applied to the fiber being spun. Because the bobbin is driven, take-up can be very strong with Irish tension, and this makes it a great wheel for bulky yarns. They also tend to treadle easily.

Drive options: the differences

Double drive offers consistent take-up. They are a joy to use for spinning fine and medium yarns. Some beginning spinners find it finicky to adjust a double drive spinning wheel, but it’s easily learned. The flexibility of using two different drive bands to control tension and slippage of the bobbin whorl add a great deal of flexibility. Additionally, many double drive wheels can be converted to Scotch tension. All in all, this is a very versatile set-up, though if you know you’ll be spinning either very fine (cobweb) or lots of bulky yarns, wheels optimized for that might give you a head start.

Scotch tension (flyer lead single drive) are great all-around performers. The tension on the flyer can be set to be very light, which is great for super fine yarns. Tension is relatively easy to adjust, and can span a very wide range, contributing to this being one of the most versatile systems. However, it will take some trial and error to make the minute tension adjustments required.

Many beginners like Irish tension: working with a strong pull makes it easier to get the “feel” of controlling tension. The strong pull also means that they are great for bulky yarns. They may require a more finesse and practice for fine yarns. Super fine or cobweb yarns may be difficult on Irish tension. Finally, Irish tension spinning wheels tend to treadle the easiest, which some people prefer.

The week before Christmas I went to Jillian’s house to spin with some friends I hadn’t seen in a long time. We were all spinning along and soon Jillian stated to struggle with her wheel. I don’t remember exactly what was happening (something about noise I think) but I do remember saying to her, quietly, in my most respectful voice, “oil it”. She said back to me in that way that she does, “I just oiled it!” I smiled at her.

She struggled for a few more minutes and then got out the oil bottle and oiled the appropriate spots. I tried to look natural and not gloaty as her problem was fixed. just a few small drops of oil and 30 seconds.

I’m not saying that oil fixes everything but it is definitely my first step when things begin to go down hill.

This same scenario happens often in classes while I’m teaching. Some people didn’t even realize they needed to oil their spinning wheel at all ever. Then 3 or 4 drops later the whole experience changes for them.

Where? Swords & souls: neverseen crack.

This is where it can get tricky because it depends on your wheel but I will say this. Every bobbin shaft needs to be oiled. I just put a drop of oil at each end of the bobbin if the bobbin is already on. If I’m changing the bobbin, I wipe the shaft clean and add a thin line of oil along the shaft before I put the bobbin on.

Also a drop of oil where the orifice goes through the front maiden and a drop where the bobbin shaft fits into the rear maiden.

If you have a wheel with sealed bearings then the wheel hub doesn’t need oil. Deponia: the complete journey for mac. If it doesn’t then a bit of oil there periodically helps.

Also, once in a while I put a drop of oil where the footmen attach to the crank.

How Often?

I oil 4 places on the mother of all on my wheel about once every hour to hour and a half of spinning and always right at the beginning of spinning even if the last time was only 15 minutes.

The rest of the places I oil about once per week or so. Sometimes more if I’m spinning a lot – like more than 20 hours in a week.

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The choice of life: middle ages - soundtrack download for mac. What to Use

I have two favorites. 30 weight motor oil which is what many wheel manufacturers recommend is the one that is most available. Gun oil is also great to use.

What not to use is sewing machine oil, or 3 in 1 oil. These are too thin, they break down faster resulting in having to oil more frequently. They also aren;t made for the amount of friction you get with a spinning wheel.

Also, I don’t recommend vaseline. It’s super thick and goopy and attracts dirt. The dirt that gets in there is gritty and will break down your spinning wheel parts more quickly.

Why?

Oil because it will help your wheel to last longer and wear better. You wouldn’t drive your car without oil. The oil in your car is there to lubricate all of the parts that are moving against each other. The same with oiling your wheel. There is a lot of friction and sometimes a little heat happens if it isn’t well lubricated.

If you aren’t sure about where to oil your particular wheel, most modern wheels wheels have a manual which you can probably find on line. If it is an older or antique wheel you can feel comfortable just putting oil anywhere there is a moving part.

I promise, you’ll thank me.